How to prepare kale for salads

Twenty years ago, few Americans had even heard of kale. Since then, this queen of the leafy greens has taken a starring role in our salads and smoothies, on our pizza—and even in our snack packs when dried into chips. It’s the most remarkable public relations takeover for a vegetable ever.

All hail kale

Kale (Brassica oleracea v. acephala), however, is not a new arrival. A modern-day descendant of the wild cabbages found in Asia Minor, there is evidence of its cultivation as far back as 2000 B.C. Though kale was grown in the Eastern Mediterranean region, it thrives in the cool and damp climate of northern Europe and the British Isles. Here in the United States, several types of kale grew in Thomas Jefferson’s gardens at Monticello in the 1800s.

Kale’s current rise to popularity has a lot to do with its nutritional profile—rich in beta-carotene, calcium, iron, selenium, magnesium, and vitamins A, C, K, and E, few  vegetables are as nutrient dense and easy to grow, especially in temperate climates. Kale even played a part in the war effort during World War II, where it was promoted as part of the British Dig for Victory campaign, providing backyard vegetables to help with wartime rationing in the UK.

Today kale has made itself at home in the salad bar and prepared foods section of the grocery store—where its stiff leaves stand up far better than tender lettuces or spinach. They hold their own on a buffet or in a lunchbox as well. The question then becomes: What type of kale to purchase or grow for salads that range from Kale Caesar to tabbouleh to slaw? And how do we best prepare this ancient green for its current turn in the spotlight?

Pro Tip: kale prefers cooler weather, where a slight frost brings out its sweetness. Most commercial kale, however, is farmed in California. For tender and sweeter greens, seek out locally grown cultivars and avoid the hottest months of the year.

Varieties of kale

Baby Kale: not a particular cultivar, baby kale is any sort of kale picked at a young age. These leaves are tender and small and don’t require special preparation. Use like lettuce, though feel free to pair with an assertive or chunky salad dressing. If you are cooking for a kale-hesitant guest, start them out with baby kale.

Curly Kale (also called Scots kale): with frilly green leaves and a crunchy tough stem, curly kale stands up to almost anything you throw at it. Chop finely and add to cabbage slaws or grain salads (great in tabbouleh or quinoa salad). Curly kale will resist wilting for hours, even overnight. You may want to marinate or massage, to tenderize.

Lacinato (also called Cavolo Nero, Dinosaur/Dino, or Tuscan Kale): perhaps the most popular kale for salads, Lacinato features smooth leaves of grey-green with a slightly pebbled surface and fibrous stems. While generally considered tender enough for salads, you may want to massage or marinate to soften further.

Redbor Kale: both ornamental and edible, Redbor is like a purple version of curly kale. Mild cabbage-like flavor and crisp texture, Redbor can be tough and is best when shredded thinly, massaged, marinated, or cooked. Often mixed in smaller portions with other kales for color.

Red Russian: sweeter and more tender than most kales, with purple stems that tend toward juicy, Red Russian has a nutty, earthy flavor. Good in salads, Red Russian rarely needs to be massaged or marinated, but the softer leaves are more likely to wilt over time. Tender stems can be chopped and added to cooked dishes.

Siberian Kale: one of the most cold-hardy cultivars, Siberian kale is softer and milder in flavor than other kales. It has a toothsome texture and requires little preparation. Like Red Russian kale, the softer leaves are more likely to wilt over time but the tender stems can be used in other recipes.

Preparing Kale for Salads

Wash and dry each leaf, checking the underside where pests can hide.

Using a paring knife or your hands, strip the leaves from the stem and set the stem aside (tender stems can be chopped and added to soups or stir-fried dishes).

Chop leaves to desired size and shape (shredding or fine chop is recommended for tougher kale types).

Massage or marinate, as needed, before proceeding with recipe.

To Massage or Not to Massage

Some kale is a bit tougher than others. In those cases, you might want to help tenderize the leaves. Massaging kale—using your hands to rub together—breaks down the cellulose, but it’s not the only option. Letting the kale sit an hour or two with a dressing that includes some sort of acid—vinegar or lemon juice—will do the same job. But if you are rushed for time, drizzle on a bit of olive oil, add a pinch of salt, and rub the leaves together for a minute or so, depending on type of kale and size of salad. You want to just slightly soften the leaves, not pulverize them. Continue with recipe and serve immediately.

The Cure-All-Cravings Kale Salad

Serves four as a side salad, two as a meal

For the dressing:
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
2 tablespoons vinegar (distilled white or cider vinegar)
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons lemon juice

Mix all the above ingredients in a small bowl until smooth and set aside.

For the salad:
1 16-oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
2 cups kale, stems removed and coarsely chopped (I prefer this recipe with Tuscan/black/dino kale or Red Russian; avoid stiff curly varieties)
1 medium to large apple, unpeeled, cut into matchsticks
¼ cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons dried cranberries, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons onion, shaved or sliced into thin slivers
½ cup chopped celery
Salt and pepper to taste

Add all salad ingredients in a large bowl and toss with ½ to ¾ of the dressing (save the rest for a future salad). Add salt and pepper to taste.

A Note About Tahini:
The consistency of tahini can vary from a thick paste to a runnier, sauce-like consistency. If your tahini is very thick you may need to thin it with a mixture of equal parts olive oil and lemon juice.

Seattle writer Tara Austen Weaver is a trained master gardener and author of several books, including “Orchard House: How a Neglected Garden Taught One Family to Grow,” “Growing Berries and Fruit Trees in the Pacific Northwest,” “A Little Book of Flowers: Tulips, Peonies and Dahlias,” and “A Little Book of Hummingbirds.”